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How to Store Your Classic Car Over the Winter

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How to Store Your Classic Car Over the Winter

Here in Canada with the harsh winters most car enthusiasts and Classic car owners will be putting that cherished classic car to bed for a few months.

However for a car inactivity can be deteriorating just like us human beings we need to move to be at our best. Damage can occur from just sitting around and our classics are no exception. 

Rubber can rot, upholstery can mildew, metal can rust, precision-fit internal engine parts can seize, wiring can short circuit, paint can blister, fiberglass can crack, chrome can pit, brakes can lock up, and batteries can go dead. 

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Some steps you can take before car bed time and to be ready for your Spring cruse are:- 

Give your classic a good detailing. Wash all road grime and salts from the undercarriage as well as body parts. Give the entire car a good wax and don't buff off chromed surfaces until you're ready to remove the car from storage. Lubricate all rubber and vacuum and clean the upholstery; you don't want any hidden food crumbs that might entice critters.

  1. Once you have your classic parked for the winter, change or drain fluids. Try to drain the fluids while the car is still warm. Oil, in particular, when it is heated and circulating, picks up and emulsifies chemical contaminants and particles. 
  2. Carefully fill the universal joints with fresh grease, if your car has lube fittings. Pack the front wheel bearings and apply clean grease on all of the steering and suspension fittings.
  3. Bleed the brake system. The best insurance against break deterioration is to drain your system of old fluid and refill with fresh.
  4. Drain the fuel tank if you are going to store your car for more than six months. Once you have drained the tank, start the engine and run the rest of the gas out of the lines. Old gas will clog carburetors and cause valves to hang up. If you are only going to be storing your car for a few months you can add a can of gasoline stabilizer to delay fuel deterioration.
  5. Drain the cooling system completely and leave the petcock open and the radiator cap off so air can circulate. Disconnect the heater hoses and drain the heater too. 
  6. Remove the battery and store it carefully if you want it to survive. Wash it down with a solution of water and baking soda, then top it off with distilled water. Store it on a shelf in a dry place, not on concrete.
  7. Raise the car and place jack stands under the suspension points. Remove the tires and stack them in a corner placing cardboard between each one and cover.
  8. Depress the clutch and lock it in position with a 2 x 4 pressed against the clutch and the front of the seat cushion or seat frame. Clutch plates often stick together in storage.
  9. Before you encase your classic in its winter cocoon, the last things to do are;
    • Roll down your windows to allow for circulation
    • Place opened boxes of baking soda in various places to absorb moisture
    • Put a plastic bag over the carburetor to keep moisture out
    • Stuff an old rag up the tailpipe to keep vermin out.

Now you can cover up your classic car. The most important consideration when choosing a cover for your car's winter nap is selecting the right kind of fabric for your specific storage application. Cotton flannel fabrics breathe and allow air to circulate through them as well as being soft and easy on your cars paint and wax. Taking the right steps now could prevent untold misery in the spring. 

The best place to leave a car is a dry, airy barn. Wood or brick garages are preferable to pre-cast concrete units, which tend to "sweat" in very cold conditions. Ideally, you should start the car at least once a month to move the oil around the engine and gearbox. You should also pump the clutch pedal occasionally to stop the friction plate sticking to the flywheel.

Modern fuels tend to go off very quickly so now is a great time to make sure you are using an oil additive like ZDD Plus Oil additive.